The spice of life

A recent article in The Wall Street Journal claimed that you don’t need dozens of spices in your kitchen. You just need eight.

Which eight, you may ask? The writer suggested: sumac, mint, cumin, coriander, pepper, aleppo pepper, cinnamon and aniseed.

Of those, I probably use three on a regular basis and I literally make every meal at home.

For the ordinary person, someone who cooks several meals a week and bakes once in a while, I’d say you need 25 basic spices: basil, bay, cajun, cardamom, cayenne pepper, chili powder, chipotle powder, cinnamon, clove, cumin, garlic powder, garlic salt, ginger, Italian seasoning, lemon pepper, nutmeg, onion powder, oregano, paprika (smoked and sweet), pepper, red pepper flakes, rosemary, salt and thyme. These will serve you in making just about any recipe, from barbecue to babka.

But if, like me, you do a lot of cooking and baking, buy whatever spices suit your fancy. Experiment with spices unique to different cultures. Try using the spices you already have in new applications. Or be adventurous and combine some of ’em — you might just create a great new mix.

3 Comments

Emily X

January 15, 2024 at 2:12 pm

I knew it was only a matter of time before the minimalists who espouse a well-curated “capsule wardrobe” start setting their sights on spice cupboards as the next problem that needs fixing. Don’t get me wrong–I think a capsule wardrobe is a good idea when it isn’t taken to an extreme. But I like my spice cupboard the way it is, and I can’t think of any compelling argument to pare down.

I have 65 different herbs and spices, and I think 8 would be far too limiting for me. In particular, the 8 suggested by the WSJ writer seem like odd choices. Those 8 would favor dishes that are Mexican and Middle Eastern, but not much else. For instance, I don’t see how it’s possible to make a decent Italian dish using those 8. But maybe the idea is to choose about 8 spices that you’d consider to be your go-to selections for the type of cuisine(s) that you favor the most. This is not realistic for someone like me who likes a variety of international cuisines and who cooks on a regular basis. Like you, I make just about every meal at home.

I do believe that certain spice blends could be eliminated from the cupboard. As you know, Italian seasoning can be made from scratch, using several easy-to-find Italian herbs in the right proportions, and the same can be said for things like Creole seasoning and Herbes de Provence and even garlic salt. But there’s something to be said for the convenience of buying those pre-made blends, and I see nothing wrong with having them on hand.

Yes, dried herbs and spices lose some of their flavor and odor over time, but not so quickly that I feel it’s necessary to throw everything out at least once a year, which is what some well-heeled culinary experts have the audacity to suggest. Older herbs and spices are, more often than not, usable–you might just have to increase the amounts you’re using in a recipe. What a waste of money it would be to replace all herbs and spices annually, just because a social media influencer or cookbook author has deemed them “old.” Most Americans would balk at the expense.

I am a minimalist about certain things in life, but as you can see, I’m more of a maximalist when it comes to my spice cupboard. I think the only herb or spice I’ve ever staunchly refused to buy was saffron. It’s crazy-expensive, and I can achieve the same bright yellow color with a dash of turmeric. The flavor isn’t the same, but that’s okay with me. I don’t feel that my cooking is greatly compromised by the substitution.

Jade Walker

January 16, 2024 at 5:34 am

Like you, I believe in the power of spices. Take any protein and combine it with vegetables and/or pasta/rice/grains. You’ll have a pretty simple and bland meal. But, add spices to those very same ingredients and you can turn ’em into a dish with the flavors of Mexico, Italy, France, China, India, Japan, etc. Spices and herbs are magical that way.

Courtney Mroch

January 22, 2024 at 11:08 am

8 spices? I agree with Emily. That was my first thought. Too few, and odd picks for the ones they went with. Your list more closely resembles many in my cabinet. But I loved your reply to Emily best. Yes! One of my fave cooking saying is “fat is where the flavor is.” I forget who I heard say that once. Either Andrew Zimmerman or Guy Fieri. Maybe even Anthony Bourdain. Totally agree but spices give dishes personality. Such a fun post, Jade! Plus fun to peek behind the scenes in your kitchen!

Emily X

January 15, 2024 at 2:12 pm

I knew it was only a matter of time before the minimalists who espouse a well-curated “capsule wardrobe” start setting their sights on spice cupboards as the next problem that needs fixing. Don’t get me wrong–I think a capsule wardrobe is a good idea when it isn’t taken to an extreme. But I like my spice cupboard the way it is, and I can’t think of any compelling argument to pare down.

I have 65 different herbs and spices, and I think 8 would be far too limiting for me. In particular, the 8 suggested by the WSJ writer seem like odd choices. Those 8 would favor dishes that are Mexican and Middle Eastern, but not much else. For instance, I don’t see how it’s possible to make a decent Italian dish using those 8. But maybe the idea is to choose about 8 spices that you’d consider to be your go-to selections for the type of cuisine(s) that you favor the most. This is not realistic for someone like me who likes a variety of international cuisines and who cooks on a regular basis. Like you, I make just about every meal at home.

I do believe that certain spice blends could be eliminated from the cupboard. As you know, Italian seasoning can be made from scratch, using several easy-to-find Italian herbs in the right proportions, and the same can be said for things like Creole seasoning and Herbes de Provence and even garlic salt. But there’s something to be said for the convenience of buying those pre-made blends, and I see nothing wrong with having them on hand.

Yes, dried herbs and spices lose some of their flavor and odor over time, but not so quickly that I feel it’s necessary to throw everything out at least once a year, which is what some well-heeled culinary experts have the audacity to suggest. Older herbs and spices are, more often than not, usable–you might just have to increase the amounts you’re using in a recipe. What a waste of money it would be to replace all herbs and spices annually, just because a social media influencer or cookbook author has deemed them “old.” Most Americans would balk at the expense.

I am a minimalist about certain things in life, but as you can see, I’m more of a maximalist when it comes to my spice cupboard. I think the only herb or spice I’ve ever staunchly refused to buy was saffron. It’s crazy-expensive, and I can achieve the same bright yellow color with a dash of turmeric. The flavor isn’t the same, but that’s okay with me. I don’t feel that my cooking is greatly compromised by the substitution.
Jade Walker

January 16, 2024 at 5:34 am

Like you, I believe in the power of spices. Take any protein and combine it with vegetables and/or pasta/rice/grains. You’ll have a pretty simple and bland meal. But, add spices to those very same ingredients and you can turn ’em into a dish with the flavors of Mexico, Italy, France, China, India, Japan, etc. Spices and herbs are magical that way.
Courtney Mroch

January 22, 2024 at 11:08 am

8 spices? I agree with Emily. That was my first thought. Too few, and odd picks for the ones they went with. Your list more closely resembles many in my cabinet. But I loved your reply to Emily best. Yes! One of my fave cooking saying is “fat is where the flavor is.” I forget who I heard say that once. Either Andrew Zimmerman or Guy Fieri. Maybe even Anthony Bourdain. Totally agree but spices give dishes personality. Such a fun post, Jade! Plus fun to peek behind the scenes in your kitchen!

The spice of life

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